What is Melasyl™? Explaining the Science, Benefits, and How it Helps with Dark Spots

Not all brightening ingredients are created equal – but Melasyl™ isn’t just another active to add to your ever-growing list of skincare ingredients.

Melasyl™ is a new, powerful molecule that represents a paradigm shift in how skincare products can be used to target hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

The culmination of 18 years of research and innovation – including 121 scientific studies and 100,000 molecule screenings – Melasyl™ offers a breakthrough in anti-hyperpigmentation skincare because it interrupts melanin synthesis at the source.

Join us as we unpack how Melasyl™ works, how it benefits all skin tones, and the science behind this cutting-edge ingredient.

What is Melasyl™?

Melasyl™ is a pioneering, patented cosmetic active ingredient developed by L'Oréal. It belongs to the thiopyridinone family and is the result of 18 years of extensive research into finding effective solutions for hyperpigmentation concerns.

Melasyl™ is uniquely formulated to actively target the source of what causes dark spots. The ingredient works by intercepting melanin precursors at a molecular level to inhibit melanin production before it can transfer as pigment to the skin.

What are the benefits of Melasyl™ for the skin?

By blocking the transfer of excess melanin, Melasyl™ benefits the skin in many ways. It:

How does Melasyl™ work? The science behind Melasyl™

Melasyl™, scientifically known as 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (Melasyl), is a proprietary cosmetic ingredient developed and patented by L'Oréal Research.

This development comprised 121 scientific studies to understand how Melasyl™ can be used to prevent excess melanin production and diminish the appearance of existing and future hyperpigmentation.

Rather than inhibiting tyrosinase (the enzymes responsible for melanin production) like other traditional anti-hyperpigmentation skincare ingredients, Melasyl™ intercepts excess melanin precursors – before they mark the skin.

Experience Melasyl™ with Revitalift Melasyl™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum

You can harness the power of Melasyl™ for dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation using L'Oréal Paris’s revolutionary serum Revitalift MelasyI™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum.

The best serums for hyperpigmentation tackle excess melanin production at every stage of the process: blocking melanin synthesis and reducing existing surface discolouration. To achieve these synergistic results, the Revitalift MelasyI™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum combines Melasyl™ with complementary brightening actives – vitamin C and niacinamide.

This serum can be used in both your morning and evening skincare routines to visibly correct dark spots, dullness, and uneven skin tone, while also smoothing the appearance of fine lines and supporting skin moisture barrier function.

Melasyl™: our commitments to safety and the environment

Melasyl™’s development reflects L'Oréal's commitment to both human safety and environmental responsibility.

This powerful ingredient has undergone rigorous safety testing using alternative methods (such as the L'Oréal-designed Episkin reconstructed skin model) to ensure safety and tolerance across diverse skin types without animal testing since 1989.

Melasyl™ was selected for its responsible water footprint and overall low environmental impact*, striking the balance between efficacy, safety, bioavailability, and ecological considerations.

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MELASYL™ FAQS

How long does it take to see results with Melasyl™?

Clinical studies show visible brightening within seven days of using Melasyl™, with progressive improvement continuing through eight weeks. This is the time needed for 86% of dark spots to decrease. Consistency is crucial: we recommend twice-daily application for optimal Melasyl™ results.

Does Melasyl™ work on all skin tones and types?

Yes, Melasyl™ is formulated for high tolerability across all skin tones and types. Melasyl™ was clinically tested across the Fitzpatrick scale phototypes I-VI (very fair to very dark skin)* to ensure safety and compatibility with a diverse range of skin types and tones.

Can I use Melasyl™ if I have sensitive skin?

Yes, given Melasyl’s™ high tolerability across all skin types, it is generally suitable for sensitive skin. The Revitalift MelasyI™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum was tested with 50% of participants having sensitive skin; 97% reported that their skin felt comfortable all day long.*

If you do have sensitive skin, it’s important to patch-test any new products first. If it’s your first time applying the Revitalift MelasyI™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum, test the product behind your ear or along your jawline and monitor for signs of sensitivity.

Which form of Melasyl™ should I use?

Melasyl™ itself is an active ingredient, not a product that comes in different ‘forms’ to choose from directly. Instead, it is incorporated into various skincare product formulations by L'Oréal and its brands. These products are typically cleansers, moisturisers, or serums designed to address dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

Which skin concerns does Melasyl™ address?

Melasyl™ can be used to target different types of spots: including sun spots, age spots and melasma, and post-blemish marks. However, the Revitalift MelasyI™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum can also be used to address multiple signs of ageing simultaneously: such as dark spots, dullness, dehydration, and fine lines and wrinkles.

How is Melasyl™ different from Vitamin C?

Melasyl™ intercepts melanin precursors in the basal layer of the epidermis – essentially, at the ‘start’ of the hyperpigmentation process before dark spots can become visible. Vitamin C acts more at a surface level: protecting the skin against further environmental damage, diminishing the appearance of existing dark spots, and brightening skin tone.

Both ingredients target hyperpigmentation at different stages, so using them together – like in the Revitalift MelasyI™ Anti-Ageing Creamy Serum – has a highly synergistic effect.

Which other skincare ingredients does Melasyl™ pair well with?

L'Oréal Paris often combines Melasyl™ with other well-known active ingredients to create a multi-mechanism brightening effect that addresses hyperpigmentation at every stage. Melasyl™ and vitamin C is just one harmonious pair; niacinamide can also help regulate the overproduction and transfer of melanin and reduce skin discolouration.

Gentle chemical exfoliants like LHAs can also support the work of Melasyl™ since they stimulate skin cell turnover and encourage the skin to shed pigmented cells.

As your skin’s best defence against harmful UV rays, SPF is fundamental to Melasyl™ results, so be sure to include sun protection in your morning skincare routine.

For more information on complementary actives, explore our in-depth guide on which skincare ingredients help with dark spots.

Can I use Melasyl™ while pregnant or while breastfeeding?

Melasyl™ is generally considered well-tolerated, but since hormones vary a lot during pregnancy and post-partum, it’s always best to consult your doctor before introducing an active ingredient into your skincare routine.

Sources

This article incorporates information from the following sources:

  • De Dormael, R., Sextius, P., Bourokba, N., Mainguene, E., Tachon, R., Kumar, G., Jouni, H., ... & Diridollou, S. (2024). 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE, A NEW MOLECULE THAT PREVENTS AND DECREASES UV-INDUCED PIGMENTATION. 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) 2023. [Scientific Poster]
  • Prévot-Guéguiniat, A., Sextius, P., Lereaux, G., Warrick, E., Ben Hassine, S., Baux, L., ... & Marat, X. (2024). DISCOVERY OF 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE: A NEW POTENT BRIGHTENING AGENT FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION MANAGEMENT, EXHIBITING A LOW ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT. 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) 2023. [Scientific Poster]
  • Sextius, P., De Dormael, R., Prévot Guéguiniat, A., Lereaux, G., Warrick, E., & Diridollou, S. (2024). 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE, A POTENT BRIGHTENING AGENT EXHIBITING A UNIQUE MODE OF ACTION INVESTIGATED IN VITRO & IN VIVO. 25th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) 2023. [Scientific Poster]
  • L'Oréal Paris. (n.d.). The Science Behind Melasyl™: Our Strongest Brightening Active Ever. [Scientific Dossier] C1 - Internal use
  • Prevot-Gueguiniat, A., Sextius, P., Lereaux, G., Tachon, R., Mainguene, E., Tricaud, C., Diridollou, S., & Marat, X. (2024). Discovery of 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent brightening agent for hyperpigmentation management. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 46(2), 241-249. doi: 10.1111/ics.12933. [PubMed: 38433524]
  • De Dormael, R., Sextius, P., Bourokba, N., Mainguene, E., Tachon, R., Kumar, G., Jouni, H., & Diridollou, S. (2024). 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine prevents UV-induced skin darkening and delayed tanning. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 46(2), 250-258. doi: 10.1111/ics.12932. [PubMed: 38560773] Dark spots, or hyperpigmentation, are the result of excess melanin production. This can be triggered by external factors like UV rays and pollution, or internal factors. These factors lead to an inflammatory signal that stimulates melanin production, which then accumulates on the skin's surface, forming visible spots.
  • L'Oréal Groupe Press Release, "L'Oréal Groupe Launches Melasyl™, A Groundbreaking Ingredient to Address Localized Skin Pigmentation Issues," March 11, 2024.

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